Press

Cozy Orapax serves tasty Greek classics

By David Nicholson

Daily Press - Norfolk

Norfolk's restaurant scene is sizzling. Almost every week, a new place opens and quickly fills with crowds anxious to taste and tell.

Keeping up with what's new can be very exhilarating, and a little draining as well. It makes me want to retreat to a quiet neighborhood tavern that's unpretentious and predictable. So I head for the Orapax Inn.

Tucked at the end of Redgate Avenue, the Orapax has been a neighborhood fixture for West Ghent residents for more than 30 years. Situated in this primarily residential area, the restaurant announces its mission with a brightly lit exterior and a loud speaker that plays Greek music.

Inside, dozens of Greek rugs hang from the walls and ceiling like wares at a country bazaar. Wood paneling and simple wooden tables and chairs also contribute to the relaxing environment. Service is pleasant from a staff that doesn't try to be cute or overeager. Prices are cheap with the vast majority of entrees under $10.

Operated by Louis Seretis and his son, Nick, the Orapax concentrates on traditional Greek dishes. If you've ever enjoyed the food at one of the area's Greek festivals, then this kind of cuisine will suit you.

Olive oil, feta cheese, oregano and eggplant are a few of the ingredients that go into some of the dishes. A favorite of mine is a pizza topped with fresh spinach saut�d in olive oil then blended with mushrooms and assorted cheeses. A heaping bowl of Greek-style salad made with Greek olives and crumbled feta cheese can also be a meal.

In addition to several pizzas, the Orapax serves pita sandwiches, salads and a lineup of traditional Greek dishes such as Mousaka (eggplant and beef casserole) and Spanakopita (spinach pie with crisp strudel shell).

From the list of appetizers, we choose two traditional Greek favorites. Gigades ($3.95) are large white beans that have been stewed in oil, tomatoes, and Greek herbs and spices. The beans were tender without being over cooked. The dish has a mild flavoring and is a great choice for vegetarians and healthy eaters.

Dolmades ($4.95) may be more familiar to lovers of Greek food. Here, a mixture of spiced beef is rolled up in grape leaves. The Orapax serves them in a slightly tart egg-lemon sauce that's a staple in Greek cooking.

Broiled meat and fish are popular Greek offerings that we sampled for our entrees. In Lam Souvlaki ($8.95), chunks of lamb are skewered with onion, tomato, green peppers, and mushrooms. A fish special ($8.95) featured pieces of shark dusted with Greek seasonings and broiled with the same vegetables. The firm texture of shark held up well to this method of preparation. Both dishes were served with a choice of orzo, Greek-style potatoes, rice or French fries.

Desserts ($1.50) were surprisingly tasty for the price. Baklava, the pastry favorite made with phyllo, ground nuts, spices and honey, was sweet and delectable. A rich, dense slice of chocolate layer cake was a hit as well.